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Khajuraho Mystery Temples

Khajuraho a place once well-known for mystery temples. Later periods broom making cottage industries flattened all the trees to flourish this business. Now it is very hard to find date tree in Khajuraho. Nearly 150kms from Jhansi railway station and 650kms from New Delhi (India) is also renowned for 25 mystery structures. In fact these structures are no ordinary, rather, are temples of ancient Chandella rulers (AD 900 – 1130). It is now part of world heritage list and world tourists visit the spot to appreciate the architectural values of combination between sexual and ritual positions sculpted on the walls justify the real sense of life of human intelligence towards spiritual gain.

Khajuraho originally had 85 temples, but only 25 now stand in varying states of preservation. Most of sculptures in the temples are identical in shape and designs made of sandstone brought from Panna on the east bank of Ken river. The sculptures are divided into five broad categories. First cult-images, second family and associated with it, third categories apsaras (beautiful heavenly women), fourth of domestic scenes, teachers, disciples dancers and musicians and finally fifth animals and beasts.

Ancient Indian Art and ritual practices were based on the reality of life involving Karma (destiny) and Kama (carnal ecstasy) together. The belief was fulfillment of both functions, way to attain moksha (spiritual way to heaven). And Moksha was the ultimate objective of human being. Moksha means to them was success of birth on earth. Fulfillment of sexual and spiritual act was the path towards the objective of life on earth. Sex was as sacred as other holy rituals. Spiritual exercise was yoga and physical exercise as bhoga. Together, was the path to Moksha (deliverance and way to heaven)!!!

The sexual carvings we see in Khajuraho temple walls are mirror of ancient time. The people of that age took a strong view of life and gave sex its due place. Khajuraho temple walls have most sexual poses inscribed in ancient text of Kamasutra. Kamasutra was believed as science to attain the best carnal ecstasy. The objective of Kamasutra was to educate methods and purpose of attaining sexual satisfaction.

Each temple wall and the poses have specialty to mesmerize visitor with its perfection in engraving and figure. These sculptures look real while viewing in deep contemplation. Each depiction of these poses symbolizes the realism of present and past human sexual desires. And carnal ecstasy is believed, way to fulfillment of human emotional and physical necessity after food and water. According to ancient architectural texts, the depiction of the loving bird, animal and human couples was considered auspicious and believed to bring luck to who made and who see or worship. The carvings on Khajuraho temples are unique in the world.

Visiting Khajuraho is an experience of life towards understanding truth about sexuality and spirituality. These temples are guidance to recognize why sexual act is as significant as ritual practices.

Coming by flight from Delhi or other city takes 3 to 4 hours reaching Khajuraho airport, sometimes times takes 5-6 hours depending flight and place of boarding, and from there the hotels are 4 kilometers away. We need two or three days to visit in detail all temples around Khajuraho.

We preferred traveling by train from New Delhi Nizamuddin railway station. The best train for Khajuraho is Rajdhani Express that runs at night and we can reach at 10am, the bad luck that we did not get ticket for this train. Our train was at night 10.40 so could sleep well in air-conditioned train with bed sheet and pillow served to us. After a good sleep, we reached Jhansi Railway station at 7am. Normally there are tourist buses but ply during tourist seasons only, other days this service is casual and non-dependable. Some newspaper vendor advised us to take bus from main bus stop so we preferred as language was not a problem for us, from station a scooter rikshaw (Taxi) charged Rs.10/- to drop at main bus stand.

We were not fresh as we did not go through morning toilet (motion) work and forgot to brush our teeth; however, we desperately needed a cup of strong tea and some oil fried Pakodas to eat. Tea was good and Pakodas too was delicious. We had to eat something before journey as we were informed by bus driver that could take 5 to 6 hours to reach Khajuraho. The bus was at 10am, we killed time roaming around the bus station enquiring other place for the visit. We got information of one placed name “Orcha Temple” we decided to visit this place after we come back. Finally, at 10am we got into the bus and seated on the number allotted to us. Bus took half an hour more to move till he jam packed the bus with passengers.

We could feel greenery and little mountains around and small tombs over them. Sky was cloudy with normal temperature that made our trip pleasant. Bus halted at 3-4 other bus stops during the journey so could ease passengers from exhaustion. Intention of the bus operator to jam pack the bus made the bus crowded, though did not upset us as we had seat yet we could hear and feel shouting of disturbed unseated passengers. Journey by bus is also favorable to socially conscious people. Can watch children selling drinking water and Ghutka (chewing tobacco) pack!! We could sense the poverty around these places especially when we saw migrating laborers in the bus. Unemployment and casual employment is so terrible that insists them to migrate to other cities where they could find their livelihood. Anyway this is life we have to face that poverty eradication is not in our hands, rather given by God and not by Governments. Speaking and communicating with native villagers was very good experience, we discussed about politics, poverty, unemployment, crop and agriculture, grain market and their life style was quite interesting. Involving with local people is a way to understand human culture, religion, and behavior.

Finally, bus reached at destination at 3pm. We were surrounded by many rikshaw (taxi) drivers and hotel agents, lot of offers and bargains guided us to take decision to hire one rikshaw who took us to a nice hotel. We hired same cycle rikshaw for entire evening for UD$ 4 /- (Rs.160), he took us to all prominent temples in Khajuraho. Visit to Khajuraho was really full of pleasure and experience.

Next day we took same private bus at 12 noon and reached Jhansi at 5.30pm. Though it was late, we decided to visit Orcha temple. The temple had huge crowd of devotees covered long distance to reach. People were in deep emotional mood waiting outside to enter temple shrine gate. We enjoyed ceremony in the temple .Please check video clip in this page of Bhajan (prayer) of Rama. Orcha once know for capital of Bundelkhand is now a small village on Betwa river bank. Was founded by Bundela king during 16th century and was systematically destroyed to create own mugal structural designs. But I perceive more of Rajputana or marwarh structures except the ancient temple which is more towards south Indian architecture as gives Dravidian touch. I may be wrong!!!!

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